[Michele]

I found this some time ago and have used it for the more dominant dogs I have run across.

#This article was written by Vicki Rodenberg De Gruy, Chairman of the Chow Chow Club Inc.'s Welfare Committee. Uploaded with permission from the author, it may be reproduced for non-profit purposes with author's credit given.

WHO'S IN CHARGE HERE?

A lesson in becoming Alpha
"My dog just tried to bite me! All I did was tell him to move over so I could sit on the couch next to him."
"My dog got into the trash can and when I scolded her, she growled at me. What's wrong with her? I thought she loved me!"
"Our dog is very affectionate most of the time but when we try to make him do something he doesn't want to do, he snaps at us."

What do these three dogs have in common? Are they nasty or downright vicious? No - they're "alpha". They've taken over the leadership of the families that love them. Instead of taking orders from their people, these dogs are giving orders! Your dog can love you very much and still try to dominate you or other members of your family.

Dogs are social creatures and believers in social order. A dog's social system is a "pack" with a well-defined pecking order. The leader of the pack is the alpha, supreme boss, Top Dog. He (or she) gets the best of everything - the best food, the best place to sleep, the best toy, etc. The leader also gets to be first in everything - he gets to eat first, to leave first and to get attention first. All the other dogs in the pack respect the alpha dog's wishes. Any dog that challenges the alpha's authority gets a swift physical reminder of just where his place in the pack really is.

Your family is your dog's "pack". Many dogs fit easily into the lower levels of their human pack's pecking order and don't make waves. They do what they're told and don't challenge authority. Other dogs don't fit in quite as well. Some of them are natural born leaders and are always challenging their human alphas. Other dogs are social climbers - they're always looking for ways to get a little closer to the top of the family ladder. These natural leaders and the social climbers can become problems to an unsuspecting family that's not aware of the dog's natural pack instincts.

Some families encourage their dogs to take over the "pack" without realizing it. They treat their dogs as equals, not as subordinates. They give them special privileges like being allowed to sleep on the bed or couch. They don't train their dogs and let them get away with disobeying commands. In a real dog pack, no one but the alpha dog would get this kind of treatment. Alpha doesn't have anything to do with size. The tiniest Chihuahua can be a canine Hitler. In fact, the smaller the dog, the more people tend to baby them and cater to them - making the dog feel even more dominant and in control of his humans.

Alpha dogs often seem to make good pets. They're confident, smarter than average, and affectionate. They can be wonderful with children and good with strangers. Everything seems to be great with the relationship - until someone crosses him or makes him do something he doesn't want to do. Then, suddenly, this wonderful dog growls or tries to bite someone and no one understands why.

In a real dog pack, the alpha dog doesn't have to answer to anyone. No one gives him orders or tells him what to do. The other dogs in the pack respect his position. If another dog is foolish enough to challenge the alpha by trying to take his bone or his favorite sleeping place, the alpha dog will quickly put him in his place with a hard stare or a growl. If this doesn't work, the alpha dog will enforce his leadership with his teeth. This is all natural, instinctive behavior - in a dog's world. In a human family, though, this behavior is unacceptable and dangerous.

Dogs need and want leaders. They have an instinctive need to fit into a pack. They want the security of knowing their place and what's expected of them. Most of them don't want to be alpha - they want someone else to give the orders and make the decisions. If his humans don't provide that leadership, the dog will take over the role himself. If you've allowed your dog to become alpha, you're at his mercy and as a leader; he may be either a benevolent king or a tyrant!

If you think your dog is alpha in your household, he probably is. If your dog respects only one or two members of the family but dominates the others, you still have a problem. The dog's place should be at the -bottom- of your human family's pack order, not at the top or somewhere in between.

In order to reclaim your family's rightful place as leaders of the pack, your dog needs some lessons in how to be a subordinate, not an equal. You're going to show him what it means to be a dog again. Your dog's mother showed him very early in life that -she- was alpha and that he had to respect her. As a puppy, he was given a secure place in his litter's pack and because of that security; he was free to concentrate on growing, learning, playing, loving and just being a dog. Your dog doesn't really want the responsibility of being alpha, having to make the decisions and defend his position at the top. He wants a leader to follow and worship so he can have the freedom of just being a dog again.

How to become leader of your pack
Your dog watches you constantly and reads your body language. He knows if you're insecure, uncomfortable in a leadership role or won't enforce a command. This behavior confuses him, makes -him- insecure and if he's a natural leader or has a social-climbing personality, it'll encourage him to assume the alpha position and tell -you- what to do.

"Alpha" is an attitude. It involves quiet confidence, dignity, intelligence, an air of authority. A dog can sense this attitude almost immediately - its how his mother acted towards him. Watch a professional trainer or a good obedience instructor. They stand tall and use their voices and eyes to project the idea that they're capable of getting what they want. They're gentle but firm, loving but tough, all at the same time. Most dogs are immediately submissive towards this type of personality because they recognize and respect alpha when they see it.

Practice being alpha. Stand up straight with your shoulders back. Walk tall. Practice using a new tone of voice, one that's deep and firm. Don't ask your dog to do something - tell him. There's a difference. He knows the difference, too! Remember that, as alpha, you're entitled to make the rules and give the orders. Your dog understands that instinctively.

With most dogs, just this change in your attitude and an obedience training course will be enough to turn things around. With a dog that's already taken over the household and has enforced his position by growling or biting and has been allowed to get away with it, you'll need to do more than just decide to be alpha. The dog is going to need an attitude adjustment as well.

Natural leaders and social climbers aren't going to want to give up their alpha position. Your sudden change in behavior is going to shock and threaten them. Your dog might act even more aggressively than before. An alpha dog will instinctively respond to challenges to his authority. It's his nature to want to put down revolutionary uprisings by the peasants! Don't worry, there's a way around it.

An alpha dog already knows that he can beat you in a physical fight so returning his aggression with violence of your own won't work. Until you've successfully established your position as alpha, corrections like hitting, shaking, or using the "rollover" techniques described in some books will not work and can be downright dangerous to you. An alpha dog will respond to these methods with violence and you could be seriously hurt.

What you need to do is use your brain! You're smarter than he is and you can out think him. You'll also need to be more stubborn than he is. What I'm about to describe here is an effective, non-violent method of removing your dog from alpha status and putting him back at the bottom of the family totem pole where he belongs and where he needs to be. In order for this method to work, your whole family has to be involved. It requires an attitude adjustment from everyone and a new way of working with your dog.

This is serious business. A dog that bites or threatens people is a dangerous dog, no matter how much you love him. If treating your dog like a dog and not an equal seems harsh to you, keep in mind that our society no longer tolerates dangerous dogs. Lawsuits from dog bites are now settling for millions of dollars - you could lose your home and everything else you own if your dog injures someone. You or your children could be permanently disfigured. And your dog could lose his life. That's the bottom line.

Canine Boot Camp for Alpha Attitude Adjustment
From this day forward, you're going to teach your dog that he is a dog, not a miniature human being in a furry suit. His mother taught him how to be a dog once and how to take orders. Along the way, through lack of training or misunderstood intentions, he's forgotten. With your help, he's going to remember what he is and how he fits into the world. Before long, he's even going to like it!

Dogs were bred to look to humans for food, companionship and guidance. An alpha dog doesn't ask for what he wants, he demands it. He lets you know in no uncertain terms that he wants his dinner, that he wants to go out, that he wants to play and be petted and that he wants these things right now. You're going to teach him that from now on, he has to earn what he gets. No more free rides. This is going to be a shock to his system at first but you'll be surprised how quickly he'll catch on and that he'll actually become eager to please you.

If your dog doesn't already know the simple command SIT, teach it to him. Reward him with praise and a tidbit. Don't go overboard with the praise. A simple "Good boy!" in a happy voice is enough. Now, every time your dog wants something - his dinner, a trip outside, a walk, some attention, anything - tell him (remember don't ask him, tell him) to SIT first. When he does, praise him with a "Good Boy!", then tell him OKAY and give him whatever it is he wants as a reward. If he refuses to SIT, walk away and ignore him. No SIT, no reward. If you don't think he understands the command, work on his training some more. If he just doesn't want to obey, ignore him - don't give him what he wants or reward him in any fashion.

Make him sit before giving him his dinner, make him sit at the door before going outside, make him sit in front of you to be petted, make him sit before giving him his toy. If you normally leave food out for him all the time, stop. Go to a twice daily feeding and you decide what time of day he'll be fed. Make him sit for his dinner. If he won't obey the command - no dinner. Walk away and ignore him. Bring the food out later and tell him again to SIT. If he understands the command, don't tell him more than once. He heard you the first time. Give commands from a standing position and use a deep, firm tone of voice.

If the dog respects certain members of the family but not others, let the others be the ones to feed him and bring the good things to his life for now. Show them how to make him obey the SIT command and how to walk away and ignore him if he won't do as he's told. It's important that your whole family follows this program. Dogs are like kids - if they can't have their way with Mom, they'll go ask Dad. In your dog's case, if he finds a member of the family that he can dominate, he'll continue to do so. You want your dog to learn that he has to respect and obey everyone. Remember - his place is at the bottom of the totem pole. Bouncing him from the top spot helps but if he thinks he's anywhere in the middle, you're still going to have problems.

Think - you know your dog and know what he's likely to do under most circumstances. Stay a step ahead of him and anticipate his behavior so you can avoid or correct it. If he gets into the trash and growls when scolded, make the trash can inaccessible. If he likes to bolt out the door ahead of you, put a leash on him. Make him sit and wait while you open the door and give him permission - OKAY! - To go out. If you’re alpha dog doesn't like to come when he's called (and he probably doesn't!), don't let him outside off leash. Without a leash, you have no control over him and he knows it.

Petting and attention:
Alpha dogs are used to being fussed over. In a real dog pack, subordinate dogs are forever touching, licking and grooming the alpha dog. It's a show of respect and submission. For now, until his attitude has shown improvement, cut down on the amount of cuddling your dog gets. When he wants attention, make him SIT first; give him a few kind words and pats, and then stop. Go back to whatever it was you were doing and ignore him. If he pesters you, tell him NO! In a firm voice and ignore him some more. Pet him when you want to, not just because he wants you to. Also, for the time being, don't get down on the floor or on your knees to pet your dog. That, too, is a show of submission. Give praise, petting and rewards from a position that's higher than the dog.

Games:
If you or anyone in your family wrestles rough-houses or plays tug of war with your dog, stop! These games encourage dogs to dominate people physically and to use their teeth. In a dog pack or in a litter, these games are more than just playing - they help to establish pack order based on physical strength. Your dog is already probably stronger and quicker than you are. Rough, physical games prove that to him. He doesn't need to be reminded of it!
Find new games for him to play. Hide & seek, fetch or Frisbee catching are more appropriate. Make sure you're the one who starts and ends the game, not the dog. Stop playing before the dog gets bored and is inclined to try to keep the ball or Frisbee.

Where does your dog sleep?
Not in your bedroom and especially not on your bed! Your bedroom is a special place - it's your "den". An alpha dog thinks he has a right to sleep in your den because he considers himself your equal. In fact, he may have already taken over your bed, refusing to get off when told or growling and snapping when anyone asks him to make room for the humans. Until your dog's alpha problems are fully under control, the bedroom should be off-limits! The same goes for sleeping on furniture. If you can't keep him off the couch without a fight, deny him access to the room until his behavior and training has improved.

Crate-training:
Dog crates have 1,000 uses and working with an alpha dog is one of them. It's a great place for your dog to sleep at night, to eat in and just to stay in when he needs to chill out and be reminded that he's a dog. The crate is your dog's "den". Start crate training by feeding him his dinner in his crate. Close the door and let him stay there for an hour afterwards. If he throws a tantrum, ignore him. Don't let your dog out of his crate until he's quiet and settled. At bedtime, show him an irresistible goodie, tell him to SIT and when he does, throw the goodie into the crate. When he dives in for the treat, tell him what a good boy he is and close the door.

Graduating from Boot Camp: What's next?
Just like in the army, boot camp is really just an introduction to a new career and new way of doing things. A tour through boot camp isn't going to solve your alpha dog's problems forever. It's a way to get basic respect from a dog who's been bullying you without having to resort to physical force.
How long should boot camp last? That depends on the dog. Some will show an improvement right away, others may take much longer. For really tough cookies, natural leaders that need constant reminders of their place in the pack, Alpha Dog Boot Camp will become a way of life. Social climbers may need periodic trips through boot camp if you get lax and accidentally let them climb back up a notch or two in the family pack order.

How do you know if you're making a difference? If boot camp has been successful, your dog should start looking to you for directions and permission. He'll show an eagerness to please. Watch how your dog approaches and greets you. Does he come to you "standing tall", with his head and ears held high and erect? It may look impressive and proud but it means he's still alpha and you still have problems! A dog who accepts humans as superiors will approach you with his head slightly lowered and his ears back or off to the sides. He'll "shrink" his whole body a little in a show of submission. Watch how he greets all the members of the family. If he displays this submissive posture to some of them, but not others, those are the ones who still need to work on their own alpha posture and methods. They should take him back through another tour of boot camp with support from the rest of the family.

Obedience Training:
Once your dog has begun to accept this new way of life and his new position in the family, you should take him through an obedience course with a qualified trainer. All dogs need to be trained and alpha dogs need training most of all! You don't have to wait until he's through with boot camp to start this training but it's important that he respects at least one member of the family and is willing to take direction from them.

Obedience class teaches you to train your dog. It teaches you how to be alpha, how to enforce commands and rules, how to get respect and to keep it. All family members who are old enough to understand and control the dog should participate in the class.

Obedience training is a lifelong process. One obedience course does not a trained dog make! Obedience commands need to be practiced and incorporated into your daily life. In a dog pack, the alpha animal uses occasional reminders to reinforce his authority. Certain commands, like DOWN/STAY, are especially effective, nonviolent reminders of a dog's place in the family pack order and who's really in charge here.

A well-trained obedient dog is a happy dog and a joy to live with. Dogs want to please and need a job to do. Training gives them the opportunity to do both. A well-trained dog has more freedom. He can go more places and do more things with you because he knows how to behave. A well-trained dog that's secure in his place within the family pack is comfortable and confident. He knows what's expected of him. He knows his limits and who his leaders are. He's free from the responsibility of running the household and making decisions. He's free to be your loving companion and not your boss. He's free to be a dog - what he was born to be and what he always wanted to be in the first place!

When You Need Professional Help
If your dog has already injured you or someone else or if you are afraid of your dog, you should consult with a qualified professional dog trainer or behaviorist before starting Canine Boot Camp. Your dog should also have an exam by your vet to make sure there are no physical causes for his behavior.

[Drgnrdr]

Thanks Michele.. I wrote this for my class, these things kept coming up...It is to be used in conjunction with the NILIF rules.

How does your dog see you….Leader or Follower?
You might be surprised that you are actually following, not leading. Try and answer these questions.
1.Does your dog usually walk ahead of you, either in the house or when you go for a walk?
Does he tug or bite at the leash?
2. You know when he wants to play because he…Brings you a toy/ball? Or Barks at you? Plays “keep away”?
3. You know when he wants attention (wants to be petted or you’re ignoring him) because he:
A). gets up under your hands?
B). barks or makes noises (whining included)?
C). puts his head on you or puts a paw on your leg or knee?
D). Jumps up on you with both feet or just stands upright looming over you?
4. When going thru doors he always dashes ahead?
5. He’s not listening to you and doesn’t pay attention to you?
6. Jumps up on the couch/chair/bed uninvited?
7. Sits with you with a paw on your foot or lays on your feet, or likes to lean into you?
8. He’s growled or refuses to budge when you try to move him or take something away from him?
9. When he's laying asleep, do you try to walk around him or step over him, so you don't disturb him?
If you are afraid of your dog, or he's nipped or bitten you or anyone, a Certified Behaviorist is needed. Don't try these solutions/tips yet.

See below for solutions and tips. Training is always the Key when you have a dog.
Make sure a vet has checked him out. You need to teach him "sit" first before asking for it.
Every dog needs a leader, if you do not take the position he will. Once he's in that position, he'll either resist giving up his status, or change because he never wanted the position to begin with.
All family members need to do this. You need to give the dog an attitude adjustment, but you can not meet aggressiveness with aggressiveness, no alpha rolls or neck shakes. Stand up straight, scowl on face, a deeper or lower voice and even a well placed “EH!” sound will let him know you mean business.
You don’t need to yell at the dog, you need to be calm but confident.
From now on you will practice Nothing In Life Is Free. The dog must earn everything he gets. Sit is what he needs to do for anything he wants. Dinner? Sit (only say it once). No Sit? Food goes on counter, walk away and try again 2 minutes later.

Solution/Tip #1: Do not let him pull or walk in front of you, he's leading you out on the forage/hunt trip. Let him potty before you head out, this way he doesn’t need to pee and mark everywhere. He doesn’t need a formal heel, that’s no fun, and too much concentration for any length of time. But, a loose leash walk next to you, where his head doesn’t go past the length of your stride, or where your foot falls, is good enough. He doesn’t get to mark or sniff every blade of grass unless you allow it, keep walking if he wants to stop, don’t let him get a chance to, talk to him, tell him he's walking good, praise him for doing so, this way he knows he's doing what you want. After maybe 15 or 20 minutes of good walking make him sit and tell him” okay” release him and let him sniff around or lay in the grass, if he wouldn’t pee at home, let him do so if he needs too. In the house, if he wants to rush ahead of you, (a lot of herding breeds do this), as he start to come up along side of you, cut him off by using your body to block the access, or sometimes it's just easier to just change direction, you may get dizzy for awhile but it will teach him to wait and see which way you're going. Don't let your dog put a paw over the leash or grab, tug or chew on your leash. Apply Bitter Apple or some type of taste deterrent or just tell him "stop" or Uh-Uh. When you teach him "leave it", that can be used so he will leave it alone.

Solution/Tip #2: If he brings you a toy or ball and drops it in your lap tell him “Uh-Uh” and calmly put the toy back on the floor, keep doing it until he gives up. If he starts barking at you, tell him “quiet” and leave the room if he doesn't do so (see #3 below). After he gives up, you know he wants to play, you can pick up the object and start the game, the difference is it’s under your terms not his when play happens.

Solution/Tip #3: Do not let him demand attention from you:
(A), remove your hand quickly don’t let it slide over him, say Uh-Uh and ignore him.
(B). Teach him to stop barking. For whining say “quiet” if they do not, get up and leave the room and go behind a closed door for a maximum of 30 seconds, come back out if he's quiet for at least 3 seconds after the 30 seconds is up, only come out if he's calm and quiet.
(C & D). Tell him “off”, and make him sit if he's standing or jumping , praise calmly if he's calm.
You can call him to you 1000 times a day for pets and love, but it’s under your terms, and until he understands you're the leader, keep this to a minimum, call him over for petting for a few seconds and then that’s it until later.

Solution/Tip #4: Teach him “wait” taught in our level 2 class, or get a leash and correct him using your voice and confident manner to tell him “uh-Uh” if he tries to rush thru, you can block the doorway with your body, have him sit before you step thru the door, then invite him thru..

Solution/Tip #5: Teach him a focus exercise like “watch me”. If he realizes you’re in charge he will start to listen to you, this one falls into place once the NILIF starts, and the teenage phase of his life ends.

Solution/Tip #6: Dogs are not allowed the privilege of being on the best places in the house, where the leader sleeps or sits. Only when you invite him. Sleeping with you sends the wrong signals.
He's at the very least equal with you. Sleeping in his own space, crate or on a bed next to yours is fine.
Maybe sleeping with you can be a goal, but after he knows who is the leader and only if he will sit and gets invited up. Teach him the "Off" command.

Solution/Tip#7. Keep him off of you. If he tries to take your space, do not move away to make room for him, tell him “off” or lean back into him so he gets displaced, not you.

Solution/Tip #8. This is a hard one, if your dog has growled or nipped at you at you for anything, you will need to really control things, no pigs ears or food type things until he can drop them when you say so, get him off or away from something by using a treat and then control the environment, use booby traps or shut doors and such to keep him off the furniture for now, so there is no physical confrontation.
It’s always best to get a vet exam to be sure nothing is medically wrong to cause aggressive behavior.

Solution/Tip #9. If your dog likes to sleep in doorways or in the hallway and you have to step around him or over him, don't do it. Tell him to move, you are coming thru. Whistle, clap your hands, shuffle your feet towards him, make him move.

Some dogs get slightly worse before they get better. Consult a trainer. NILIF is a non confrontational way to give your dog an attitude adjustment.
Don’t bend over and give commands, stand up straight in a position of authority. Get eye contact and tell him one time what you want, if he knows the cue word, he should comply, if not, get a stern look, point or snap a finger at him and deepen/lower your voice, step into him, and tell him again. Wait for him to comply, if he tries to leave, say “uh-uh” and try again. You do not want to repeat your cue words over and over, he thinks he's in charge, you have to let him know, his reign is over.
Don’t get on the floor and have your dog jump all over you.
No giving of food from table, no begging, do not free feed, he needs to earn it.
A dog that sees you as Leader will usually come to you trying to make his body smaller or with head lowered, a tail wag and ears back. Not a submissive posture, but a happy I know you lead look. Teach him what you want thru training.
Be calm and confident.

(Leader or Follower) All thoughts are from the author only.

All of the material contained in this handout is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, copy by writing the information down or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from Drgnrdr. If and/or when permission is given, any reproduction of this handout must contain the authors name and credit given to them. Not to be misinterpreted coming from any major Pet store or their affiliates.. All Rights Reserved

[BlueKitty]

Wow! Lots of great advice from both of you! I really appreciate you taking the time to post threads like this.

I have some questions for anyone willing to help. I am new to pits and just moved into a house with two of them. One has been with the family since he was a puppy, and he is a love, if not the most responsive of animals. Kitty, the female, is new to the house. We took her in after her previous owner wanted to get rid of her because she kept biting their pug. Kitty is VERY animal aggressive, (not to the other pit), probably because she was unsupervised with the other dog before. She also lived in a yard that had a hill with lots of rabbits, and she was constantly after them, although was never successful. She also got one of our cats who went after her food.

I have a very different opinion about how to train the dogs than the rest of the family. Most of the time the dogs are left in the yard together, unsupervised. We can't let Kitty into the house because she's too wild right now and would go straight after our Chihuahua (I know I could try putting the Chia in another room). I would like to work with them every day on behavior and not use intimidation, but the problem is that I am the one intimidated right now. I am having a problem being the alpha "bitch"

I try and walk Kitty on a leash, and all she does is bite at it. (I don't think her previous owner walked her very often.) She still goes over to the area by the fence where she got the cat, even though we moved her food dish and put bitter apple and dishwashing liquid on the wrought iron (she was chewing it). I know that I need to excercise her a lot, but I don't feel comfortable enough right now to take her out of the yard, especially since a lot of the neighbors let their dogs run loose (grrrrr!). I try and run with them in the large yard, but Kitty distracts easily and runs off into the bushes. She won't fetch a Frisbee, squeaky ball, or anything else I throw. The most she will do is run after it, but then leave it and wander off. Blue just follows her, not me.

Kitty is so used to being the alpha in her other place, that she even lords over Blue, even though he's the bigger of the two and has been here much longer. (It doesn't help, of course, that he's head-over-heels in love with her.) He even lets her eat out of his food dish. I try to feed him first to show that he is at least a rung above her in the pecking order, but she just helps herself.

I'm sure many of you are shaking your heads right now at all the things I am doing wrong. I know I have a LOT to learn, and I appreciate any feedback you can give me. I just ask that you be kind (I know you will )

I want to be the alpha leader, but I am still intimidated by their strength and energy, even though neither of them have ever been aggressive towards humans. I feel that if I could just get them exercised enough, I might be able to settle them down to train them. But like I said, I'm too nervous right now to take them out of the yard. I don't know if it would help to take them out really, really early before any of the other dogs are out yet (I get up at 4 to go to work so I'd take them out at 3), but again, I don't have control over their energy if they just felt like taking off.

Is a professional trainer in order? I don't trust them around a class full of other dogs; should I have someone come to the house?

Thanks in advance for your feedback. I really love this site and look forward to learning something new each time I visit.

[maryellen]

i would start by doing strict NILIF with the female.. and put her on leash 24/7 wrapped to your waist, where you go she goes... she must learn the rules of the house and not be given so much freedom at once,she needs to EARN every bit of freedom,pets,food, walks that she wants... if she cant be tied to your hip on leash then crate her.. you need to teach her boundaries in your house ... and dont be nervous.. did you research having 2 pit bulls in the house before you got her?? are you prepared to crate/rotate for the rest of her life if she decides she will hate your other pitbull due to her genetic history of dog aggression??

[Michele]

I think you need to start NILIF right away with them. Also, do you crate and rotate the dogs? Since the one is DA, you are going to have to start doing this, if you haven't already. Dont' be nervous. Your dogs will sense this.

Below is the link to NILIF:

http://www.pitbull-chat.com/showthread.php?t=1571

Do the NILIF in conjunction with the information in this thread.

[BlueKitty]

Originally Posted by maryellen i would start by doing strict NILIF with the female.. and put her on leash 24/7 wrapped to your waist, where you go she goes... she must learn the rules of the house and not be given so much freedom at once,she needs to EARN every bit of freedom,pets,food, walks that she wants... if she cant be tied to your hip on leash then crate her.. you need to teach her boundaries in your house ... and dont be nervous.. did you research having 2 pit bulls in the house before you got her?? are you prepared to crate/rotate for the rest of her life if she decides she will hate your other pitbull due to her genetic history of dog aggression??

Should I let her in the house, then, so she can be around me 24/7? I'm happy to comply with that, I just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly. Also, if I have her in the house, should I have the other pit in the house, too? The reason I ask is that he is really distracting as all he wants to do is lick and mount her.

As for researching having two pits in the house, we took Kitty in for a trial basis, since she's my boyfriend's brother's dog and he was just looking to get rid of her (very sad story, I know). I think my boyfriend assumes that since he's had two pit bulls together before and they were fine, these two will end up fine too. (Yes, I know, I'm working on training the BF, too.) Do you think it would be best for all concerned if we try to find another home for her?

I have to work with both of them on behavior; who should I work with first? I've already described Kitty's behaviors, but Blue can get hyper, too, and he refuses to walk on a leash. He just plants himself down and I would literally have to drag him down the street.

Thanks for the helpful input; I really appreciate it.

[BlueKitty]

Originally Posted by Michele Dont' be nervous. Your dogs will sense this.

Easier said than done But I'm determined. I know that if I spend more time with them I will become more accustomed to them and they to me. I've been trying to do as much research as I can to learn more about them, too. Should I get a trainer to show me some tips, or do you think NILIF would be enough to help me gain control?

[Michele]

Start with the NILIF right away. And crate and rotate the dogs. Also, takes Maryellen's advise about leashing to your waist. You are alpha and your dogs need to know that.

[Michele]

[quoteAlso, if I have her in the house, should I have the other pit in the house, too? The reason I ask is that he is really distracting as all he wants to do is lick and mount her.
][/quote]

This is where the crate and rotate comes in.

[BlueKitty]

Originally Posted by Michele [quoteAlso, if I have her in the house, should I have the other pit in the house, too? The reason I ask is that he is really distracting as all he wants to do is lick and mount her. This is where the crate and rotate comes in.

Should I crate them both during the day until we get home from work? With commuting, we are both gone for about 9-10 hours per day.

I know these sound like such naïve questions, especially for someone who already has the dogs. I'm just still new to all this, and if it had happened on my terms, I wouldn't have gotten them before doing all my homework. I'm ashamed to say we don't have crates for the dogs. Do you have a particular type you would recommend?

[Michele]

Here's a thread on crates:

http://www.pitbull-chat.com/showthread.php?t=2923

As far as crating them both 9-10 hours a day, I'm not sure. I'll leave that question for someone that knows more about that than I do. Can someone come home to walk them during lunch? I would think that 9-10 hours is a bit too long to be in a crate.

[Michele]

Also, read up on the use of break sticks:

http://www.pitbull-chat.com/showthread.php?t=1513

[BlueKitty]

Originally Posted by Michele Also, read up on the use of break sticks:

Originally Posted by Michele http://www.pitbull-chat.com/showthread.php?t=1513

Thanks, I actually read the thread on that before. If I get to the point where I can run with them in the neighborhood, should I always carry one with me?

Yes....

[maryellen]

Should I let her in the house, then, so she can be around me 24/7? I'm happy to comply with that, I just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly. Also, if I have her in the house, should I have the other pit in the house, too? The reason I ask is that he is really distracting as all he wants to do is lick and mount her. As for researching having two pits in the house, we took Kitty in for a trial basis, since she's my boyfriend's brother's dog and he was just looking to get rid of her (very sad story, I know). I think my boyfriend assumes that since he's had two pit bulls together before and they were fine, these two will end up fine too. (Yes, I know, I'm working on training the BF, too.) Do you think it would be best for all concerned if we try to find another home for her? I have to work with both of them on behavior; who should I work with first? I've already described Kitty's behaviors, but Blue can get hyper, too, and he refuses to walk on a leash. He just plants himself down and I would literally have to drag him down the street. Thanks for the helpful input; I really appreciate it.

yes, she should be in the house... you tie her leash to your waist, and where you go she goes basically.. she has to earn some freedom..work with her first, then the male, then her... give each one time alone with you so that they bond to you not each other..

also, get both of them spayed and neutered if they arent already..

also, NEVER leave both dogs alone together unattended, or you WILL come home to either one dead dog or two...

put the male away when you are working with the female, and do NOT let him hump her, that is a sign of dominance, and WILL lead to a huge fight.

get a break stick too..

if you cant crate both of them for the day while at work, crate one and let the other one have free roam of a secure room with a door, and rotate both so that each one gets time in a room while you are at work..if you can, find someone savvy enough to come in and let them out for potty one at a time, never together....

managing a multi pit home http://www.pitbull-chat.com/showthread.php?t=3110

breaking stick info http://www.pitbull-chat.com/showthread.php?t=3401

and YES always carry a breakstick with you outside the house and have one in the house as well...


NILIF Info
http://www.pitbull-chat.com/showthread.php?t=1571

now, if you both feel that you are better with just one dog, then go to www.pbrc.net and read on how to find the female a new home, and make sure she is spayed before she goes to a new home.. and kick the boyfriends brother for not wanting his dog..

[Drgnrdr]

Crate and rotate helps you be able to work with BOTH on the same day, not just pick one and not the other.

Kitty is so used to being the alpha in her other place, that she even lords over Blue, even though he's the bigger of the two and has been here much longer. (It doesn't help, of course, that he's head-over-heels in love with her.) He even lets her eat out of his food dish. I try to feed him first to show that he is at least a rung above her in the pecking order, but she just helps herself.

They have already decided where they are, you're below them, blue is not gonna eat before her she will tell him off later if he did, so he differs to her,

The reason I ask is that he is really distracting as all he wants to do is lick and mount her.

is he neutered? she fixed? I would do so.

Read the Follower/leader paper I wrote, it will tell you little things you can do to start the shift of power in your home, because it is non confrontational, it doesn't put you in jeopardy on a physical test of wills.
The paper Michele copy/paste from another forum for me, is one I give to ppl that really needs boot camp for the dog, the dog has growled or snapped.

Your dog watches you constantly and reads your body language. He knows if you're insecure, uncomfortable in a leadership role or won't enforce a command. This behavior confuses him, makes -him- insecure and if he's a natural leader or has a social-climbing personality, it'll encourage him to assume the alpha position and tell -you- what to do. "Alpha" is an attitude. It involves quiet confidence, dignity, intelligence, an air of authority. A dog can sense this attitude almost immediately - its how his mother acted towards him. Watch a professional trainer or a good obedience instructor. They stand tall and use their voices and eyes to project the idea that they're capable of getting what they want. They're gentle but firm, loving but tough, all at the same time. Most dogs are immediately submissive towards this type of personality because they recognize and respect alpha when they see it. Practice being alpha. Stand up straight with your shoulders back. Walk tall. Practice using a new tone of voice, one that's deep and firm. Don't ask your dog to do something - tell him. There's a difference. He knows the difference, too! Remember that, as alpha, you're entitled to make the rules and give the orders. Your dog understands that instinctively.

use a lower tone in your voice not a quiver in your timber of tone, not yelling or screaming. If you are really afraid of your dog and nervous you may need a good trainer to show you how to be, you'll have to check and see who is in the area, for your aggressive girl, they have to usually come to you, so you don't put anyone else in jeopardy.

[BlueKitty]

Thanks, everyone, for such good advice. I appreciate all of you taking the time to help me. And yes, maryellen, my first order of business is to kick my BF's brother for not wanting his dog. Maybe I should tie HIM around my waist and make him earn his freedom back... Blue is one of his "rejects" too.

Any word on how long is 'too long' to keep a dog crated for the day?

[maryellen]

well you could tie him around your waist too... that would be a funny sight to see thats for sure...

well, 9 hours is long, but if they are both adult dogs, they should do ok.. you have to make sure that both dogs are super tired out mentally and physically before you put them in their separate crates before you go for work, so you should get up a few hours earlier (2) and exercise both dogs .. if you cant get someone to come in for potty breaks they will still be ok.. you could also instead of crating them if they are both house worthy and trusty give each a room with a closed locked door with a metal gate in front of each door as well, this way they each have their own room but cant get at each other.. or, you can crate one one day, and have the other loose in a different room that cant get to the crated dog, and switch every day or every other day and give each dog access to the room and the other the crate, and rotate that way while at work....

and i meant that the crate can be used for each dog every day for training and working with the other dog..

[Drgnrdr]

and i meant that the crate can be used for each dog every day for training and working with the other dog..

I see that now ME, I just said this

Crate and rotate helps you be able to work with BOTH on the same day, not just pick one and not the other.

Because she said this

Should I let her in the house, then, so she can be around me 24/7? I'm happy to comply with that, I just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly. Also, if I have her in the house, should I have the other pit in the house, too? The reason I ask is that he is really distracting as all he wants to do is lick and mount her.

You had submitted a reply right before I sent my reply, so I did not get a chance to read your's while I was typing mine Sorry.

[maryellen]

haha. we were just toooo quick typing.

[Drgnrdr]

HA HA apparently you're faster than me....well I only use 2 fingers...