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  1. #1

    Best Way to introduce 2 male dogs???

    So here's my situation ,, I have a male APBT "Copper" (4yrs) and a female Bully "Shelby" (1 1/2yrs) and one of my friends are movin and he cant take his dog. which is a 2 1/2yr. old male Bully "Tito" .... Now Copper is very dominant and "tito" isnt very aggressive but i know what will happen... I brought tito to the house the other day and copper istantly went for him.. i got tito to the crate and let copper check him out then i put copper in the cage and let tito check him out thru the cage...Now I know that ill never be able to let them co exist together.... but iwanna be able to leave and not worry about comin home to two dead dogs im goin to keep tito in a kennel outside but what should i do to get them where they wont fight????? or can I?????????? lol

  2. #2
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    Welcome to the world of "crate and rotate", you will have many friends here. Sounds like if he's already going after the other dog, he has DA issues. Best thing you can do is buy 2 crates, and crate both of them when you leave the house. Also, invest in a break stick, at least one, if not 2 or 3. Break sticks are the best, most effective way to break up a fight within seconds. Here's a link to Pit Bull Rescue Central :Pit Bull Rescue Central-break sticks

    Never leave these dogs along, and never trust them not to fight. A bulldog will fight, it will just depend on if it finds a dog that brings out the DA issues in it. Mollie has selective DA... she is fine with Bella, Zoe, and even though she's been in a fight with Maxx, she gets along with him now.. however, she and Titus DO NOT get along, and one of them has to be securely crated before the other is allowed to walk past to go out to potty. It's just a way of life. It's better to be safe, and crate them both during the day, than to come home to one dog dead, or one dog that has spent his entire day terrorizing the crated dog... then when the crated dog gets loose, he's gonna go nuts. Just be safe, and crate them both. ;)

  3. Honestly in a situation like this - only time will tell.

    Right now what your doing is the right thing. I suggest that maybe you can also take turns putting the dogs on a leash - Example:

    Put 1 dog on the leash while the other explores - Don't allow the dog to wimper, bark, or growl at the dog thats free; rotate between dogs and repeat - Next step would be to allow them a little freedom.....but don't leave them alone - NOT a good idea ~

    In my opinion I wouldn't leave the dogs alone together because of the fact that Pitbulls are naturally DA - However I hope this helps a little.

  4. #4
    thanks... thats what I figured.....Copper was real DA when he was younger and he's only DA when im outside..when im in the house he will play and run around with my neighbors bassethound's but the moment i go outside he pins them down and lately he had chilled out alot.. my friend had been bringin his bully up even brought him in the house and copper was perfect they even drank water together and i kno that just bc hes good once doesnt mean hell be good all the time... Im just goin to keep copper in the house and keep tito in the 20x20 kennel outside.. i think its the safest thing to do and thanks for the link i will be purchasing a couple sticks for sure Jeremy

  5. #5
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    I've moved your thread to the Training/Behavior forum in hopes you get more replies to your question. :)

  6. #6
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    Start pack waling together. This will give them a chance to be together in a controled situatuion while giving them a job. They will be able to see and smell eachother but they will both be able to do a job togther. This works really well when introducing dogs. They may not be the best of friends but you can make this work.
    Good luck

  7. #7
    I rarely take in other males as I own a very DA male. That being said, there were three different adult males I eventually took in for a time. What I did was slowly, over a few months time, work on desensitizing them to each other. For the first while, they were just crated in different areas of the house, until they could get used to the scent of other males dogs around. Eventually, I worked up to to moving their crates close enough that they could hear each other, but not see each other. Then I progressed to where they could see each other with a baby gate hindering their view of each other in the crates. Then I eventually worked towards removing the baby gate so they had full view, but with enough distance that they weren't reacting. Then I moved to one being crated and one being leashed or attached to an inhouse tie down. It took months, but my VERY reactive male, eventually got the the point of being able to be in the same room with them crated, and ignore them. It was a very slow process but for him, it was a HUGE stride in his tolerance level. That's as far as I choose to go though as all these dogs were pretty close to outweighing me. I only had a good ten/fifteen pounds on them, so if they got into it, I'd be breaking up two hundred pounds of dog, which wasn't that good of a plan. lol The key was moving slow, and not moving beyond their tolerance level.
    Last edited by Zoe; 12-04-2009 at 10:51 PM.

  8. #8
    I introduce a new dog to a resident dog away from the home turf, on neutral ground. Going for a controlled, leashed walk or hike is a nice way to gage chemistry, and break the ice. imo.

  9. #9
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    Good thinking Alexandcompany... on neutral ground is always good, and a long walk together without letting them sniff each other first is a good way to tire them out. :)

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Alexandraandcompany View Post
    I introduce a new dog to a resident dog away from the home turf, on neutral ground. Going for a controlled, leashed walk or hike is a nice way to gage chemistry, and break the ice. imo.
    I forgot to mention, there should be 2 competent handlers involved, one for each dog:)

  11. #11
    It's funny, my male does the WORST on neutral ground. He's WAY more willing to deal with the situation if it's on his own territory. Out and about, not a freakin' chance. Just food for thought. Every dog is different, so try to take cues from your dogs reactions as well. ;)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zoe View Post
    It's funny, my male does the WORST on neutral ground. He's WAY more willing to deal with the situation if it's on his own territory. Out and about, not a freakin' chance. Just food for thought. Every dog is different, so try to take cues from your dogs reactions as well. ;)
    I agree, LOL. This applies to so much in dog ownership. It makes me think of my DA dog Ninja ... a lot of things that "should" be b/c of his DA, aren't. So I have just learned his "rules" and know how to manage him.

  13. #13
    Thanks guys for the advice.. So far Ive been keepin the new dog in a a crate and ive been takin him outside and puttin him in a kennel.. and they've been gettin along thru the fence... So hopefully Copper will accept Tito.. Im goin to take it slow and depending on how Tito does with the crate Im might just leave him in the kennel outside... Whats the longest you can leave a dog in a crate? I work from 8-5 and my girlfriend is so scared of the new dog she will barely even pet him so I dont have anybody to let him out. and when I get my camera back I'll post some pics of him.... He's a lil scrawny b/c i guess he was starving when i rescued him... But he's looking wayyyy better.. hes all perked up now lol

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